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INTEREST CATEGORY: SECTORS, MARKETING AND SOCIETY
POSTING TYPE: Calls: Journals

Author: Elaine Ritch

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Call for papers

Sustainable Innovation for Fashion Practice

Social Enterprise Journal

The submission portal for this special issue will open 1 December 2022.

Guest Editors:

Elaine L Ritch, Glasgow Caledonian University, UK
Noreen Siddiqui, University of Glasgow, UK
Lisa McNeil, University of Otago, NZ
Anne MJ Smith, Glasgow Caledonian University, UK

Captured within concern for the climate crisis and the limited time to halt irreversible environmental damage, sustainability is highly topical. Despite the fashion industry being the second biggest polluter after the aviation industry (United Nations, 2020), sustainable responses have at best been superficial. What is required are creative innovative novel solutions that focus value creation on design, materials and construction that challenge the disposability of fast fashion. While discourse on fashion sustainability is highly topical in academia, as well as in wider society, there has been little exploration beyond dominant social paradigms of production and consumption. Consequently, this special edition calls for a re-evaluation of fashion practice through the lens of social innovation. It is hoped that this call will ignite discussion on different aspects of fashion consumption by examining fashion retailers, consumers, social enterprises and communities contributing to creating new models rooted within sustainable practice.

This call builds upon previous special editions e.g., Comunian et al. (2020) with the focus rooted in fashion – the largest creative industry in the UK (Donaldson, 2016) and on a global basis (FDC, 2021). Yet, creativity within fashion practice has been eroded in the pursuit for increasing the consumption of inexpensive garments. Take, for example, UK online fashion retailers Pretty Little Thing selling a dress for 8 pence (UK sterling) in 2021 (Blackhall, 2020).  Within the sustainable fashion literature, it has long been established that fashion consumers disengage with sustainable fashion due to perceptions that it is more expensive, not available in known fashion retailers and it does not follow fashion trends – as such these barriers impose assumptions of sacrifice. We are not seeking to advance knowledge around new ways in which to sustainably produce fashion for new consumption, we are seeking novel solutions for new practice that reinvigorates what is already in circulation and focuses on values of authenticity, design, materials and aesthetics. These novel innovations fall within the new environmental paradigm, underpinned by sustainability, societal wellbeing, and inclusivity.

The fashion industry and fashion practice has been overlooked within the social enterprise literature due to industry focus on competitive capitalistic business models yet there is potential for new practice to challenge the status quo and inspire creative social innovation and entrepreneurship models that disrupt the dominant social paradigm of normalised consumption behaviours, to respond meaningfully to concerns for sustainability and climate change. It is also hoped that the papers will advance the sustainable fashion literature and merge social policy, social innovation and social entrepreneurship theories. This will be useful for developing academic discourse on sustainable fashion practice.

This special issue is timely; firstly, as we emerge from the disruption of the COVID-19 pandemic, consumer behaviours have already experienced change, and during social lockdowns there was more evidence of community support and engagement. Secondly, recent reports from the IPCC (2022) indicate the urgency to address the climate crisis, and there are opportunities to engage with consumers to encourage more sustainable practice. Thirdly, we are moving into a cost of living crisis, with the cost of consumer goods rising and increased concerns for growing poverty; this will impact on the wider economy as disposable incomes reduce. Collectively, these three issues highlight the pertinence of advancing equity and sustainability of fashion practice. In this special issue, we invite empirical and conceptual papers which investigate evidence of sustainable issues with fashion practice from different perspectives e.g., social communities, social media, fashion retailers, collaborative practice, garment lifecycles, garment consumption models, fashion circularity. We aim to examine disruption within fashion practice, by exploring new ways in which to practice fashion engagement and involvement. It is hoped that emergent research will contest the dominant paradigm seeking to empower fashion consumers to evolve their own personal style and identity. Finally, we hope to challenge academics and practitioners to think outside the box and to create novel solutions to the wicked problem of the climate crisis. Below, we outline some key (though not exhaustive) research areas which can advance the research agenda.

Circular fashion social enterprise models

Fashion consumption is intrinsically bound to self-concept and social identity, causing many to overconsume in the pursuit of self-ideals. Heightened awareness of the detrimental impact of this overconsumption has, however, led to increased experimentation with alternative garment consumption models by many fashion consumers.  Circular models of fashion consumption and production are cited as key to the viability of the fashion industry long-term (Esbeih et al., 2021), although the structure of useable social enterprise models in respect of fashion circularity are still under debate.  To provide critical models of fashion production and consumption that produce social value in the sustainability context, it is vital to understand both the logics of the relevant models, as well as the roles of the stakeholders present within these models (Kokko, 2018; Halberstadt and Spiegler, 2018). This call thus asks for discussion of alternative garment consumption models underpinned by social entrepreneurship principles, as a means to understand better the value-laden forms that these might take in fashion.

Community engagement for alternative fashion practice

Consumers are aware of the issue of fashion sustainability and are open to making behavioural changes that lessen the detrimental impact of their fashion consumption. Studies show that consumers do mend their clothing, as well as make or re-make (upcycle) garments (Laitala and Klep, 2018). Despite the inconvenience of some of these actions, consumers show willingness to engage with activities that promote textile longevity (Degenstein, McQueen and Krogman, 2021).  Where there are skill gaps apparent amongst some consumers, there remains room for social enterprise that closes these gaps in a community setting.  Increased awareness of sustainability is said to positively influence desire to participate in community events that extend the lifecycle of garments (Diddi and Yan, 2019), and in this sense local social networks offer a platform for shared social value creation (de Beer, 2018). Questions remain as to what are the forms of social relational networks that best influence sustainable innovation in fashion practices that extend the lifecycle of garments?  How can models of local social networks be extended to fashion practices across the industry more generally? And whether social entrepreneurship in fashion lifecycle extension can be utilised as a critique of mainstream fashion production and consumption?

Community social innovation

Wealth building involving grassroots community organisations, is indeed desirable for all aspects of social wellbeing (Steiner et al., 2022). Despite there being many socio-cultural and economic challenges for community development processes there are essential principles that enable an entrepreneurial group to be socially innovative; activity occurs at local level, driven by collective power, provision is accessible and inclusive, tackles relative poverty through creativity, innovation and sustainable processes, and attracts agency and sector support (Steiner et al., 2022; Seebohm et al., 2009). Principles of this nature are also the engine of community led social innovation. So, for a sector challenged by a Global call for sustainable practice including resource use, product disposal, fair wages and ethical processes (Comunian et al., 2020), how can community principles be embraced and by fashion and the broader sector activity for social innovation? Ritch and Smith, (2020) explain how there is scope for fashion to create and provide social solutions for community interests.  Early days perhaps, but it is time to consider how a discourse on sustainable and community led fashion can be effectively conceptualised. From a community social innovation perspective, how can literature conceptualise creative solutions at grassroots levels and capture the very broad reach of fashion sustainability?  Are communities able to self-organise and engage with the most disadvantaged groups harnessing fashion sector outputs and processes? Are community organisations entrepreneurial in approach and can they harness the social enterprise model or is more wealth building support required from government and local authority (Preston City Council 2021)? We have not yet fully conceptualised sustainable fashion practice in the community, empirical evidence and a requirement for case-based inquiry will at last advance this discourse.

Sustainable fashion entrepreneurs, business models and retailing

Fashion retailers play a role in promoting sustainability because they are intermediaries between manufacturers and producers through supply chains and, consumers through store and digital channels. Their attempts of sustainable practice can be categorized into four groups: social wellbeing, environmental stewardship, economic prosperity, and governance (Strähle and Müller, 2017). While they allude to developing circular business models within their sustainable business practice, e.g., garment collection and resale schemes, these efforts are fragmented and only effective at a small-scale level. A number of strategies have been presented to improve the scalability of sustainable practice within existing business models (Hulberg and Pal, 2021) which include; (i) a do it yourself approach by fashion retailers; (ii) divide the labour approach through collaboration; (iii) absorbing external ideas and opportunities and (iv) creating together through collaboration to achieve industry wide change. These could be explored further to provide direction regarding which approach on scalability is relevant to circular business practice. Opportunities also exist to examine sustainable fashion entrepreneurs where commitment to promoting social and environmental sustainability is embedded within their business model. (Todeschini et al., 2017).  There is also a lack of research regarding the environmental friendliness of fashion retail store (Strähle and Müller, 2017). This call invites discussion on more robust strategies and novel ways in which sustainable and innovative practice could be implemented by fashion retailers. For example, how could they engage consumers more is sustainable fashion practice through education awareness in stores? Would consumers appreciate workshops on repair and re use? If so, how can these be scalable with retail organisations?

Retail spaces for new environmental paradigms

The impact of covid on high street retailing is self-evident as the lockdown accelerated the shift towards online shopping. In the UK, over 10,000 chain stores branches closed in 2021 (The Retail Bulletin, 2022). Fashion brands such as Debenhams and Top Shop are no longer visible on the high street.  Nearly 90 per cent of Debenhams stores remain empty almost a year after the department store closed its doors (Butler, 2022). The raises an opportunity for sustainable fashion practice moving from urban area to city centre locations alongside other fashion boutiques and café culture (Overdiek, 2018). The literature on temporary retail space revolves around the concept up pop-up retailing (Warnaby et al., 2015). The concept of a “sustainable temporary store” with the benefits of “collective pop-up shops” is a model relevant to micro fashion entrepreneurs within slow fashion and vintage fashion concepts providing opportunities for new value creation and developing business models (Pomodoro, 2013). However, there are challenges associated with entrepreneurs developing sustainable business models due to a lack of knowledge and business skills e.g., retailing and a lack of financial resources. While many international brands use the concept of pop-up stores successfully, (Klein et al., 2016) how can micro fashion entrepreneurs be provided with relevant support to sit alongside established brands on the high street. This call for discussion focuses on the creation of fixed city centre locations to educate and provide immersive consumer experiences within sustainable fashion. Could micro businesses learn new skills to build experience in retailing and develop new business models? Would such practice create a more vibrant high street experience? How can high street provide permanent space to experience sustainable fashion practice and engagement?

Digital communication strategies to engage in sustainable fashion practice and consumption

Many fashion brands use social media extensively which is an effective communication tool to address issues around sustainability (Dovleac, 2015). For example, Instagram is the most influential visual social network and a perfect communication tool for the fashion industry (Alonso, 2015).  It also plays a significant role in communicating sustainable fashion consumption (Creanga, 2019). Instagram allows fashion brands to connect with potential customers and increase awareness loyalty and engagement (Testa, 2021). Whilst fashion companies are placing more emphasis on branding and collections focusing on sustainability (Zhan et al., 2021), how these are communicated to wider audiences through social networks in under researched.  For example, how does a fashion brand use social media to communicate values and actions pertaining to sustainability? How do consumers engage with brands on content related to sustainability compared with content focused on lifestyle and fashion trends? How can fashion brands create innovative sustainable content to engage with consumer through social media? This call encourages discussion on the role social media can play in developing digital communication strategies to engage in sustainable fashion practice and consumption.

Further suggestions are provided below:

• Sharing economy models that include: Swapping; Sharing; Renting; Borrowing; Libraries
• Redistribution models that include: Consumer to consumer networks; Business to business; Business to consumer and Consumer to business
• Circular activities that consumer alternative material sources and recycling
• Initiatives that nudge consumer attitudes and behaviour, such as social marketing and repositioning consumer value
• The role of social media platforms in positioning consumer attitudes and behaviours as well as co-creating sustainable discourse
• Upcycling models, such as workshops for repurposing and styling to develop consumer skills and practices
• Disruptive measures that challenge the dominant social paradigm of consumer behaviours
• Case studies of community action and engagement
• Tackling poverty through textile innovation and sustainable processes
• Social enterprise examples of potential to engage communities with sustainable fashion practice
• The role of textile repair in consumer lifestyles, extension of garment lifecycles, encouraging care and repair – from both producer and consumer perspectives
• Cross disciplinary approaches to developing sustainable business models in fashion
• Sustainability brandling and labelling
• Consumer perceptions of sustainable fashion as a luxury product
• The role of fashion retailers to support social innovation practices within communities – this may include pop ups ion retail spaces

Enquiries should be directed to the special issue editors: Dr Elaine L Ritch (elaine.ritch@gcu.ac.uk);  Dr Noreen Siddiqui (noreen.siddiqui@glasgow.ac.uk); Dr Lisa McNeil (lisa.mcneill@otago.ac.nz);  Dr Anne MJ Smith (anne.smith@gcu.ac.uk)

The deadline for full paper submissions is 1 February 2023. Submitted papers should follow SEJ submission guidelines and be written in good English to be fully considered. The submitted papers will go through the usual double blind review process as per the guidelines of the Journal. Submissions to this special issue must be made through the Social Enterprise Journal’s ScholarOne submission system. When submitting your paper, please ensure that the correct Special Issue is selected from the dropdown menu on page 4 of the submission process.

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